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Beyond Ferndale: Ice Events to Wake the Soul

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Beyond Ferndale: Ice Events to Wake the Soul HowesLocation
Editor’s Note:  Beyond Ferndale is a chance for readers to share their travels and other personal experiences.  If you’d like to contribute to this section, submit your story/essay/blog /idea to editor@ferndale115.com

While there may be scenery in our region that seems to mimic landscapes elsewhere (parts of the northern Great Lakes shores can resemble the Pacific Northwest; our dunes and beaches look like the Atlantic shores of New England), one thing we have that few other regions nationwide have is variety.  Not only can a visit to a place like Point Pelee vary from week to week, it can vary from the time spent walking north up a beach for an hour, then back.

Last week’s visit to Point Pelee, Ontario’s (Canada’s, for that matter) southernmost point, gave us hours of walking past ice formations Andy Goldsworthy wouldn’t bother changing.  The east shore was a work of art from bottom to top.  The ice was stacked, creaking, groaning, toppling on occasion, showcased against miles of open water framing it from behind.

This week, the lake looking east was frozen as far as the eye could see.

As I walked along, I was struck not only by noises the ice made, but by the sense of a living presence they conveyed.  Thinking the Lake a Being wasn’t fanciful, quaint, or mystical, it was good common sense.  One stretch of ice made certain sounds, specific consonants; another stretch, others.  The first series of “words”: “Wherp!  Whip, whip!   Whoooop!”  Slightly farther, the Lake said, “Chert! Chip! Sherrrrp!”  A spot peppered with small round holes, through which water was regularly being forced, made reverse-drip sounds: “Ploink!  Ploonk!  Ploonk!”

Compared to last week’s Art Show, and seemingly gale-force winds from the west, yesterday’s east shore was breezy, much of the Art gone, with that arctic landscape as far as the eye could see.

But that breeze out of the northeast was growing.  Sounds were accumulating far out on the ice, grinding, roaring, escalating to the sound of four or five trains, then four or five trains wrecking; it grew louder and louder and sounded as though some dramatic event was about to happen, although the icescape looked the same.  The breeze was steady, not strong, but enough to chill even a bundled-up person in the 23-degree temperature.  I waited as the noise increased, reluctant to miss perhaps the kind of event that caused last week’s gallery.  The roar grew louder, cannon noises joined the din, the sounds of glass breaking, then thin, brittle plastic, mixed with grinding, grinding, grinding.  The breeze was directly in my face and I expected the ice to suddenly, or gradually, be pushed towards me.  Still, the ice remained static.

Then I noticed, 20 to 30 feet offshore, a movement.  The breeze was pushing the ice not directly to shore, but straight south.  A massive pack of lake ice, far too large to see across, was moving parallel to the beach, gaining speed, sometimes revealing open stretches of water, sometimes grinding against the fixed ice, breaking, stacking, collapsing, restacking, only to collapse again.  Large pieces looking like window glass would stand up, topple.  The still-floating ice, being pushed by the inexorable breeze and all the moving ice behind it, would steadily ram any obstacle, breaking, stacking, sometimes getting pushed under the barrier of pieces, sometimes climbing briefly onto the stack before breaking, one huge piece after another, a miniature lesson in Plate Tectonics.

Open water appears for the first time
The whole show might have lasted an hour; I lost track of time.  As I walked back south towards my car, the amazing event kept pace right beside me, leading me to believe it was happening north-to-south, and I’d find the same beach I’d walked a couple hours before.  Not so.  First I noticed open water all along the beach, about two feet in width, from the ice edge beachward.  The wind was pushing the water under the ice, and it was emerging under the ice. I tossed pebble after pebble to convince myself it really was water, and not glassy ice.  After all, it was only 23 degrees.  Then I noticed my previous tracks were  covered.  Stacks, piles, tons of ice had been pushed shorewards; my previous walk obliterated.
Some of the aftermath
More aftermath.  The piles of ice in the distance are moving, breaking, grinding.
Another line of shattering, constantly-moving and breaking ice.  That black line on the horizon?  BIRDS.
The return to my car, my previous footprints buriedReid_Sally_115
As I forced myself to leave, amazed to reach my car and find I’d watched ice and a wonderful Lake for three and a half hours, the din, the roar, the gun-booms and cracks were increasing.  I felt I was experiencing maybe my own once-in-a-lifetime ice event, so ran back for one last look and a few more pictures.  The piling and breaking, the drama, continued for a few more minutes.  The breeze remained steady.  But another “once in a lifetime” was about to happen.
It all stopped.  Like the flipping of a switch, the ice was still, the noise ceased.  Nothing moved, not a sound was heard.  The gentle breeze, powerful enough to start tons of ice moving, the ice building its own power and http://www.greenthumbferndale.com/momentum, wreaking havoc on itself, remained.  Silence settled on the lake.  And with a stunned feeling of reverence, I returned to my car, and to Detroit.
About the Author:  Becky Hammond has volunteered with local Sierra Club offices for the last 10 years, beginning with the Building Environmental Community Office in Clawson, and now writing for the Great Lakes Program in Detroit. She and organizer Melissa Damaschke work on all issues concerning the Lakes, including stormwater, energy, invasive species, pollution, and, of course, getting out and enjoying our region’s watery landscape. She writes on the environment for Ferndale Friends and The Activist, a statewide publication of the Sierra Club. She recently won the Alex Sagady Cyberpunk Award, and has been Green Cruiser of the Year and Ferndale’s Residential Environmental Leader.
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The Ferndale 115 News has written 1373 articles for The Ferndale One~Fifteen News

The Ferndale One~Fifteen News has been providing Ferndale, Michigan with independent online news since June 2009. Contact Editor & Publisher Crystal A. Proxmire at editor@ferndale115.com with ideas, sponsorships, questions etc. If you want to get in the conversation - like us on Facebook - www.facebook.com/ferndale115news.

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